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Healdsburg

The Well-Balanced Bistro

by Jerry on November 5, 2008

Chef Ralph Tingle is a good, earnest guy who could put several reams of typing paper to use whipping out a few chapters of his bio about his well-lived life-to-date: stints at Taillevent in Paris, Le Cirque in New york, Le Fetzer in Hopland, to name a few. Fortunately for Ralph, typewriters are in upstairs attics waiting to be hauled to local museums. Besides, he doesn’t have time to write – just yet - because he is too busy keeping his eye on the bistro ball he put in motion back in ’92 when he opened Bistro Ralph on the Healdsburg Plaza - and this is fortunate for us.  

When Ralph found this ideal place to hang his chef’s shingle and attempt just the right balance of hard work, innovation, relaxation, and celebrity required for a small town restaurant, we were ready to embrace his effort. We are still embracing. We all eat at Ralph’s. We all hope he is there when we go in for lunch or dinner. We all hope he gives us some time. We like Ralph because he is incredibly human, remarkably peripatetic – difficult in our little town, passionate about his kids, politics, and his food – which is also some of our favorite food: lamb burgers, chicken livers, frites, good sole or barely cooked yellow fin, and a proper chicken paillard. Plus, he still starts us off with those little seasoned bread balls that we eat like popcorn while we’re waiting for our glass of wine.  

I mention the bread balls because I have spent time at Ralph’s occasionally calculating the number of these things I have eaten in sixteen years – about 3,786 to date. I mention the wine because currently we can enjoy a glass or two of the 2005 Michel-Schlumberger Maison Rouge – the perfect Bistro wine to have when we dine at Ralph’s Bistro.          

 

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Looking Back on Harvest…

by Mike on October 28, 2008

The last press load of every year makes me think about how hard we’ve worked and usually makes me consider how quickly two months can blow by.  This year was no exception. We started on August 22 with a bit of Pinot Blanc.  The PB crop load was about the same as last year even in this dry season. We then continued on with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Semillon and a spot of Viognier. All of these were a bit lighter than the previous year, but quality is phenomenal.  Most of the Chardonnays have already started their malolactic fermentation.  This is good.  With the weather being so warm, it definitely helps move things along.  We’re making the most of this Summer-like weather here in Autumn.  

Back to the reminiscing.  After two weeks of high heat, we continued our harvest by bringing in some Zinfandel, followed up by a spot of Syrah. Both blocks were displaying the characteristics I like to see/taste in grapes that are ready to go; brown seeds, softer skins, and zero green flavors.  It was about the middle of September that we really started cruising, bringing Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and some more Syrah into the fermentation room.  Some Merlot and Malbec came in as well.  Once all those lots started fermenting, the entire cellar smelled like cocoa, cinnamon and blackberry jam.  Torture.  Working with your mouth watering all day…it’s torture.  The good news for us was that we could “test” as many tanks as we felt necessary. That’s how we make our pressing decisions after all.  The weather cooled down when the marine layer rolled in and that allowed us to let the remainder of the fruit sit out and get some quality “vine-time” (aka hang-time).  


The cellar crew was stunningly efficient even when every tank was full.  With Kate and Caitlin punching down (usually following some parking lot Yoga) first thing every morning (7am) and Jose running pumpovers in the barrel room, it was pleasant to know that everything was being handled (while I worked in the vineyard, sampled grapes and checked in on the vineyard crew). Tom (Enologist) was organized and on time with each days numbers coming in at the same time every day.  It was beautiful.  Tony (Viticulturist/Naturalist), Ramiro (Cellarmaster) and Javier (Maintenance) all took turns weighing grapes, destemming, filling barrels, pressing, dumping pomace into the compost pile, cleaning, driving forklift or handling any of the other things that come up on a daily basis at a small winery.  A week after the near three inches of rain that we got in early October, we brought in the rest of the Cabernet Sauvignon.  The skins were just starting to soften up and the sugar and acid balance were just about perfect.  It fermented and we pressed our last load and voilà!  Harvest 2008 was finished.  Just like that.  Kinda chokes me up…

I’ve got to take this opportunity to say Thank You to Javier Sr., Tony, Ramiro, Tom, Javier Jr., Kate, Caitlin, Jose  and the entire vineyard crew for making this a splendid and safe harvest.  All of our hard work and efforts will be represented in the 2008 wines.  Stay tuned!  

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Fall and Winter Tourism in Sonoma County

by Brooke on October 23, 2008

Why come to wine country after crush has ended, and before the summer months are here?

To give just a few reasons:

There are less people traveling, meaning: less traffic on the roads, fewer customers in the tasting rooms, smaller tour groups, and more attention from winery staff. It also means you’ll spend less money on lodging/dining out if you cash in on off-season special offers. Many inns offer multiple night stay or mid-week rate specials. Restaurants offer locals menus (pre-fixe menus including multiple courses and dessert) at great prices and are also much easier to get into without reservations or with less advanced reservations.
A few examples of the these specials are:

Right in the center of Healdsburg, the Hotel Healdsburg (Chef Charlie Palmer’s hotel which is adjoined to the Dry Creek Kitchen Restaurant) offers up winter specials, with 50% off a 2nd nights stay, Dinner and spa packages, and more…….. Go to: http://www.hotelhealdsburg.com/home.php

Then there’s the Honor Mansion in Healdsburg-the picture of elegance and luxury, that is currently offering buy one get one free for any mid-week 2 night booking. They will have more off-season rates and specials which will start November 16th and run through April 14th (many of these are internet only-so make sure to book online). Go directly to the Internet Specials page at:
http://www.honormansion.com/member/firstTimeSpecials.jsp

How about this special at Haydon Street Inn - the shopper’s special  Stay at Haydon Street - stay in one of the beautiful KING rooms Sunday-Thursday in November or December, 2008, and get the second night at 50% off.  And that incudes a 3-course breakfast & a great wine hour each evening!  Click here:  Haydon Street Inn.

Santi Restaurant (fine dining/traditional Italian) in Geyserville has Locals nights all year on Wednesday evenings, Half-off wine Tuesdays, and Supper Club pre-fixe menu evenings featuring a different region of Italy one Sunday a month.

The list goes on…………….. The point of my rant is that there is a LOT of great stuff to do, eat, taste……………in wine country and you can cash in on the best deals during the late Fall and Winter months.

Come on Up and taste the bounty-and share with us any of your favorite hidden secrets in the comments!

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It’s almost a wrap

by Jay on October 22, 2008

Changes is constant here at Michel Schlumberger. As we are nearing the end of our Friday Night Courtyard Music Series (we’ve two more to go!), I’d like to thank all of the musicians who came early and stayed late to play here.   We’re obviously not a big venue drawing thousands of fans but I’ve heard many a musician say that there’s no finer place to play.  Once it gets dark and the courtyard lights come on, it truly is a special place.   One of our main goals here at the Estate is to support our local economy by supporting local charities, artists and of course musicians.  Most of these guys and gals have day jobs, so it takes a lot of work to make it up here and then turn on the amps.  As a fellow musician, I know it takes a lot of prep work but once you’re here, it’s a blast. So Big Thanks from us at Michel Schlumberger!

Jay Kell

Jay Kell

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Visit the Dry Creek Kitchen and Experience Healdsburg from the Inside Out

by Jerry on October 17, 2008

You can’t knock around Healdsburg, California too long before Chef Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen hits your “good meal” radar. When it opened a few years back, most of us in the town felt the place was out of place. A restaurant of uncommon quality tucked beautifully into a hotel that was best discovered in a faux town of recent origin. The restaurant was too fancy, too well-done, too big city and just too big. It even had “soft” flooring, what interior designers call a rug, and a good bit of etched glass - so that we couldn’t really see into the kitchen. This restaurant just wasn’t Healdsburg.

And, within what seems like five seconds, Dry Creek Kitchen is completely part of our town constitution and a stalwart anchor at the end of the Plaza. We fit it and it fits us – not every night – but often enough that locals and visitors alike feel they have experienced a fine meal well-served when they want a special dining celebration or prefer to tuck into a table for two and hide from the hurly burly just outside. Charlie Palmer, one of America’s leading chefs and owner of the highly acclaimed Aureole in New York, has come directly to the source – Northern Sonoma County – for the finest fresh seasonal produce, gourmet food purveyors, and fine wines, when he launched Dry Creek Kitchen. His staff is town friendly, Wade runs the room with the deft attention of a man who really does love hospitality, and Drew is a Wine Director always interested in learning the last nuance of a newly released wine or telling you a story about a Cabernet well-aged. Besides, the restaurant is called Dry Creek Kitchen, named after a world class wine growing appellation with a bent on quality, a growing interest in green-farmed vineyards, and distinctive wines framed by tradition. Jump in for lunch or dinner and order a single course or a banquet for ten - it will satisfy your craving for fine dining and allow you the very best view of the Healdsburg town plaza - a visual respite to savor along with a fine bottle of wine.  

Road Warrior Jerry

Road Warrior Jerry

 

 

 

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Being near the end-just gets you that much closer to the beginning……….

by Brooke on October 16, 2008

Yes, harvest is over. Pretty much everyone in Sonoma County is finished bringing in their grapes if they aren’t doing late harvest wines……
However, don’t let this fool you into thinking that wine country goes to sleep from October-January. The creeping of the seasons towards the end of the calendar year-just brings the beginning of the year that much closer and already we’re all hard at work planning our late Fall and Winter parties, tastings, and special events.

First up-we’ve got a BIG cellar sale on the 1st Saturday in November.

Then there’s the BIG Pig Party in November (we had over 100 people at this last year-and had to stop taking reservations!).  And then we’re still putting our heads together over the Holiday Event we’ll have for our Wine Club members in December……….

During which time the vineyards will be turning from yellow, gold, and orange to purples, and reds and then to naked, dormant vines waiting out the crisp winter weather to awaken once again in the Spring…….
I’m caught up in appreciating the beautiful Autumn ’scapes right now in Dry Creek Valley-I take a camera with me to work each day in case I see a view I just have to capture on film. Stay tuned for more updates on our event calendar, or just give me a call anytime if you’d like to hear about any new fun things we’ve got going on here at the Estate………..

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Clone 6 Cab…Magic

by Judd on October 15, 2008

 

Now that harvest 2008 is complete, I’m inspired to chat about our Clone 6, or ‘Jackson’ clone Cabernet Sauvignon.  There is something about our little corner of the world, this unique side-pocket sticking out of the west side of Dry Creek Valley, that seems to lend itself so well to Clone 6. 

Well, it lends itself well to the quality statement, that is, but frankly, the yields are pretty horrible economically speaking.  Yet as poor as the yields are, I’m not sure there is a richer clone qualitatively.  Tiny, tiny berries…more like little blueberries than grapes - this clone produces a simply stunning, and very identifiable wine…especially when it comes from the benchland vines clinging to the hillsides of the Michel-Schlumberger estate.

As the story goes, this clone was transported to the U.S. from Bordeaux in the mid 1800’s and planted for study by the U.C.  Along comes phyloxerra in Europe and the world is turned upside down.  European vineyards are devastated…and after a few ‘Hail  Mary’s’ viticuturally speaking, order comes back to the world of wine. 

Meanwhile, this plantation of Clone 6 outside of the little town of Jackson in the Sierra Foothills is forgotten. 

In the mid 1950’s or so, some UC researchers figure out that this plant material still exists somewhere and set out to find it.  Lo and behold, they find some wild vines and scrape some plant material to propagate this now ‘heritage’ clone.  And as it turns out, this clone seems to create something magical on the Michel-Schlumberger Estate. 

So when you taste our Cabernet Sauvignon…and especially the Deux Terres (our ‘reserve’ equivalent), taste the wine, close your eyes, and transport yourself back to Bordeaux in about 1850…that’s pre-European phyloxerra…and experience a wine that perhaps is reminiscent of the right bank maybe from a time forgotten.  From a time before any of us were born and when the glory of Bordeaux was born.  Imagine it — now taste it.  How cool is that?

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Salon Music

by Jay on October 8, 2008

Steve Pile

Steve Pile

Last Friday was the first significant rain we’ve had this season.  It was nice to finally see some moisture in the sky.  We had to scramble a bit for our Friday Night Music and move the festivities into the salon. Steve Pile played and he put on a great show.  One of the benefits of the indoor action was the salon was transformed into more of a cozy wine bar. We brought the couches in and rearranged the funiture a bit.  Our “bar” was moved into the kitchen like old times and everyone who’d been here before remembered the good old days of tasting in there. We liked the salon lay out so much we’re keeping the setup.   My question is to you is what type of music is most condusive to wine enjoyment. I know what I like and I think Steve Pile fits the bill well but I wanna know what you prefer.

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Top Harvest Excuses

by Mike on October 6, 2008

So, here we are in the first week of October and we’ve still got some Cabernet Sauvignon out there (even after the 1.5″ of rain we received on Fri/Sat.).  Things are going well with tanks full and pumpovers/punchdowns in full effect.  Some days are a bit longer than others and it got us talking about how “harvest” really is the best excuse ever…OK, so things have gotten a bit punchy in the cellar, but it is harvest after all. (#1)

Miss a party? “I was busy.  Grapes, punchdowns, yeah just couldn’t make it…harvest and all.” (#2).
Late for dinner? “The crusher/press just wasn’t working well.  It seems like it took longer today.  I guess just one of those harvest days honey.” (#3).
Too many beers? “I was just drinking ‘em for hydration purposes and they kinda crept up on me. Not sure how that happened…harvest! Yeah, that’s it.” (#4).
Just when you start to think about how you’ve got an excuse and answer for everything, you realize that they’re all true (maybe not the beer excuse, but the other three for sure).  We pour a ton of ourselves into the vineyards and winery during every autumn and all these things come up.  We do miss parties.  We are late for dinner.  The days are mysteriously longer on certain days (usually the busy days). Why so much sacrifice you ask?   It’s because we all really enjoy what we do and we strive to make the finest wine this West Dry Creek ranch can make.
  
Here’s to the Harvest Excuse!  What’s your favorite? Let me know.
YouTube Preview Image

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At the end of the road, stop at Applewood Inn

by Jerry on October 3, 2008

“Weekend warriors wax poetic about this woodsy retreat tucked away in the Russian River Valley that’s worth the drive on a foggy curving highway for superb French-accented California cuisine and wines from a great, very local, very exclusive list served by a knowledgeable, helpful staff; the warm welcoming and ultraromantic setting “make it a fabulous over night destination.” - Zagat Survey

That I have known my good friends Jim Carron and Darryl Knotter, proprietors of Applewood Inn, for 18 years gives me the cred to jump up strong and tell you that everyone I know agrees wholeheartedly with Zagat. Applewood is an Inn of the highest quality. It has been consistently offering an attractive lodging and dining experience since 1986 and is the very best place to visit in western Sonoma County if you are looking for elegance, tradition, beauty, and delicious food and wine. Why wander about looking for more, when this bucolic, six-acre, wooded setting, complete with pool and country gardens is available just for you and your best mate out for a weekend date, or celebrating a life-long commitment?

The Inn has three charming buildings that evoke early California Mission architecture: the original mansion house built in 1926, two newer buildings with well-appointed guest rooms inspired by the architecture of Michel-Schlumberger - this is a true fact, and a very cool wooden structure that mimics a rural, barn-like building where the restaurant and bar are located. Even more important, for those of us who enjoy a serene, rejuvenating, guest experience, you will find the  Innkeepers and staff are available, hospitable, knowledgeable, but never intrusive. Who wants to be jabbed in the ribs by an info-mercial first thing in the morning? They will, however, direct you to Michel-Schlumberger if you inquire about wineries to visit which have a similar eye on quality and guest experience.  

Meanwhile, the restaurant, under the command of Executive Chef Bruce Frieseke, offers exceptional Sonoma County fare and is very well priced according to the service and quality that rings through the room. Full of country charm, but appointed with the cleverness of a personality well-schooled in another era, the Applewood Restaurant serves up satisfying portions of well-flavored dishes inspired by local ingredients and a creative kitchen team. The wine list, always changing with the seasons, is well-up to the challenge of pairing with Chef’s fine cuisine. Even better, if you want to enjoy just a glass or two before dinner or with your main course, please order the Michel-Schlumberger Merlot. This is real Merlot which strikes an accurate, California challenge to the famous right-bank wines of Bordeaux. It is rich, distinctive, and currently featured at the restaurant. It layers perfectly with Chef’s savory stews and vegetable offerings that kick off this harvest time of year.

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