Deux Terres

by Judd on October 15, 2008

Now that harvest 2008 is complete, I’m inspired to chat about our Clone 6, or ‘Jackson’ clone Cabernet Sauvignon. There is something about our little corner of the world, this unique side-pocket sticking out of the west side of Dry Creek Valley, that seems to lend itself so well to Clone 6.

Well, it lends itself well to the quality statement, that is, but frankly, the yields are pretty horrible economically speaking. Yet as poor as the yields are, I’m not sure there is a richer clone qualitatively. Tiny, tiny berries…more like little blueberries than grapes - this clone produces a simply stunning, and very identifiable wine…especially when it comes from the benchland vines clinging to the hillsides of the Michel-Schlumberger estate.

As the story goes, this clone was transported to the U.S. from Bordeaux in the mid 1800’s and planted for study by the U.C. Along comes phyloxerra in Europe and the world is turned upside down. European vineyards are devastated…and after a few ‘Hail Mary’s’ viticuturally speaking, order comes back to the world of wine.

Meanwhile, this plantation of Clone 6 outside of the little town of Jackson in the Sierra Foothills is forgotten.

In the mid 1950’s or so, some UC researchers figure out that this plant material still exists somewhere and set out to find it. Lo and behold, they find some wild vines and scrape some plant material to propagate this now ‘heritage’ clone. And as it turns out, this clone seems to create something magical on the Michel-Schlumberger Estate.

So when you taste our Cabernet Sauvignon…and especially the Deux Terres (our ‘reserve’ equivalent), taste the wine, close your eyes, and transport yourself back to Bordeaux in about 1850…that’s pre-European phyloxerra…and experience a wine that perhaps is reminiscent of the right bank maybe from a time forgotten. From a time before any of us were born and when the glory of Bordeaux was born. Imagine it — now taste it. How cool is that?

2002 Deux Terres Cabernet Sauvignon-Tasting Note

by Jay on September 24, 2008

One of the many things I do here each day is taste our wines. Most of the time, it’s simply to check for any off aromas or flavors before pouring them for our guests. But other times, I sit down and actively taste. This process is more cerebral and I try to do it alone and in a quiet place where I can concentrate.

As part of an ongoing series, I invite those of you who’ve had this wine recently to add your own tasting notes in the comment section below.

The name Deux Terres originates from the French meaning two lands or two soils and it’s appropriate for this wine because it unites our two ranches at Michel Schlumberger. We take the two best blocks of Cabernet Sauvignon from the lower ranch and the best block of CS from the Upper Ranch on Bradford Mountain. Keeping the wine from these blocks separate while aging allows Mike to pick the best barrels from each and then find the perferct blend. In 2002, there is a dash of Malbec from a neighboring block.

Color
Deep purple at the center with darker tones of falu red along with edge of the glass

Aroma
As I typed the intro to this post, I could smell wine a foot away from my computer. An intense bouquet of violets and cherry eminated from the glass and now fills the room. Everytime I smell this wine I’m reminded that this place is special. Diving into the glass proper now, an array of spice-nutmeg, lavender, rosewater-swirls around a solid frame of crushed red fruit-cherry, strawberry, raspberry. There’s a touch of cedar spice but in the guise of pencil shavings and graphite. There’s so much going on as the wine relaxes, I get black tea and darker fruits like plum and blackberry. These are the kind of smells that make me excited to taste.

Taste
Wow! The interesting thing about the 2002 Deux Terres is what’s not there. It’s not overripe and loaded down with alcohol like a lot of modern CA Cabernets. It’s not jammy or cumbersome. Texturally, it’s so nice. Slightly smoothed tannins alongside perfectly balanced fruit and acid. Six years in is a magical time for our wines. Flavors of black cherry cobbler and strawberry pie come lushly across the palate followed by muted tannins and still bright acididty after all these years.

Pairing Suggestion:
I want a steak so bad right now, I can taste it! But on further reflection, I think I would decant this wine at the beginning of dinner and serve alongside something more delicate like a cheese course. It think it would go spectacular with St. George from Matos Dairy or maybe Mt. Tam from Cowgirl Creamery.

One of the side benefits of this post is that I get to take the rest of the bottle home with me.