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clone 6

Clone 6 Cab…Magic

by Judd on October 15, 2008

 

Now that harvest 2008 is complete, I’m inspired to chat about our Clone 6, or ‘Jackson’ clone Cabernet Sauvignon.  There is something about our little corner of the world, this unique side-pocket sticking out of the west side of Dry Creek Valley, that seems to lend itself so well to Clone 6. 

Well, it lends itself well to the quality statement, that is, but frankly, the yields are pretty horrible economically speaking.  Yet as poor as the yields are, I’m not sure there is a richer clone qualitatively.  Tiny, tiny berries…more like little blueberries than grapes - this clone produces a simply stunning, and very identifiable wine…especially when it comes from the benchland vines clinging to the hillsides of the Michel-Schlumberger estate.

As the story goes, this clone was transported to the U.S. from Bordeaux in the mid 1800’s and planted for study by the U.C.  Along comes phyloxerra in Europe and the world is turned upside down.  European vineyards are devastated…and after a few ‘Hail  Mary’s’ viticuturally speaking, order comes back to the world of wine. 

Meanwhile, this plantation of Clone 6 outside of the little town of Jackson in the Sierra Foothills is forgotten. 

In the mid 1950’s or so, some UC researchers figure out that this plant material still exists somewhere and set out to find it.  Lo and behold, they find some wild vines and scrape some plant material to propagate this now ‘heritage’ clone.  And as it turns out, this clone seems to create something magical on the Michel-Schlumberger Estate. 

So when you taste our Cabernet Sauvignon…and especially the Deux Terres (our ‘reserve’ equivalent), taste the wine, close your eyes, and transport yourself back to Bordeaux in about 1850…that’s pre-European phyloxerra…and experience a wine that perhaps is reminiscent of the right bank maybe from a time forgotten.  From a time before any of us were born and when the glory of Bordeaux was born.  Imagine it — now taste it.  How cool is that?

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Mother Nature Calling

by Mike on September 15, 2008

Now that the fog has rolled into Dry Creek Valley, the grapes are finally getting the hang time that they will surely benefit from.    With these cool, wet (we call it frizzle…fog+ drizzle= frizzle) days and nights, the ripening process has slowed considerably and flavors, acids and tannins all seem to be coming together perfectly. 

We picked some clone six cabernet sauvignon off the Bradford Mountain Ranch on Saturday and it came in with beautiful flavors and aromas (not to mention color).   The sugar was right where you’d like to see it and the skins were thinner and more delicate than the block adjacent to it. 

Ah, the physiology of vines, the subtleties of clonal selections and the effects of mother nature.  Cabernet seems to benefit from a little moisture on the skins.  It wasn’t until this marine layer rolled in that we began to see a change in the skins of most of the bordeaux varietals (we grow cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, malbec, petit verdot and carmenere).  Up until a week ago, the skins were tough (a response to the extreme heat?) and the seeds were still attached to the pulp.  Now that we have some cool nights, the grapes are moving towards the latter stages of ripening which includes the maturation of tannins in the skins.  It’s a delicate walk here.  You want to have nice ripe tannins, but you certainly don’t want pHat, flabby tannins either.  One way to achieve this is to taste in the vineyard everyday to get a good idea of the status of each block.   So far the season has been kind and with this cool weather slated for the next few days, it looks like we’ll continue to reap the benefits of mother nature’s air conditioning.  I like the fog.

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Mike Brunson Harvest Update

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