I really enjoy Merlot. Had some last night as a matter of fact. It seems that poor Merlot has taken some hits in the past decade. There was a point in the nineties that Merlot was all the rage (kinda like the current buzz with Pinot Noir). Everybody was planting it, everybody was drinking it, everybody was loving Merlot. What happened? Well, some people blame the movie Sideways. Sure, the movie didn’t help matters, but neither did poorly made Merlots. I remember in the late nineties having some horrible representations of Merlot. No varietal characteristics…just plain, standard issue red wine. Hmmmm…makes me wonder if this is why they picked on Merlot in Sideways. Maybe the writers, directors, producers (and anyone else responsible for the script for that matter) were sick of the crap that was being served in the real world. So, why not hammer it and poke fun at it? Merlot has been around for a long time and it has a legacy that is deeply rooted (pun intended) and should be able to bounce back from the ridicule of this silly movie, right? For some time tested producers, yes. For others who planted the entire ranch to Merlot, maybe not. Merlot is a great varietal. Generally speaking, it has a tendency to display the vintage differences sooner than Cabernet Sauvignon and will hold onto it longer than most Pinot Noirs (especially from California). Sounds good, eh? It is.
Here’s a challenge for you readers; Pick up some Merlot (from a consistent producer such as…ummm…Michel-Schlumberger!) and sit down and really taste the wine. Fire off some comments regarding what you like/dislike about Merlot as a varietal. I think you’ll be surprised at how many positives will come out of your tastings.
Mike Brunson - Winemaker at Michel-Schlumberger
{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }
I heart merlot when it’s a good merlot. Just like any wine-some are good, some are great, and some are just average or *gasp* yucky. I like our 2002 Library Merlot a LOT. It’s remniscent of an aged right bank Bordeaux but with more fruit……… Damn good. and REALLY damn good at the price of a merlot ($30) vs. the price of most bordeaux blends or even California meritages. Heck-come to think of it merlot wines have been some of the highest priced wines in the world-(Think Chateau Petrus in Bordeaux where older vintages sell for thousands when you can find them. What is the main grape here? You guessed it: Merlot)
I really like Merlot as well, but I believe winemakers are bored with it, at least in my ‘fighting varietal’ price range. It certainly does not seem to get the respectful treatment that Pinot noir or Cab get, to bring out distinctive varietal character or distinctiveness of vintage or terroir. And when winemakers get bored with; wine drinkers get bored with it. I haven’t entirely given up; but I’m not working as hard to find good Merlot as I used to. [shrugs]
Tina- I think you may have hit the nail on the head regarding the respectful treatment of Merlot. During harvest, Merlot is one of the most fragrant fermentations in the winery and shows a complexity in tank that spans a huge spectrum of aromas and flavors. Merlot has earned my respect. Check out our 2004 or 2005 Merlot for a taste of that respect. The [shrugs] had me crowing by the way!
Leave a Comment