News and Views From High Above Dry Creek Valley

It’s 2009!  Looking back on 2008 at Michel-Schlumberger I realize how much has happened here during the past year.  

In the past year we’ve hosted guests here at the winery for luncheons and dinners on 20 different occassions. 

 We’ve participated in 3 different annual weekend long Russian River Wine Road Events  (http://www.wineroad.com), during which we saw close to a thousand people each weekend!

We had our weekly Friday night courtyard music series on 20 Friday evenings between May and October.

We threw 3 wine release parties, 3 open houses, 2 Cellar Stash Sales, and 2 off-site winery events (a cruise and a hike/picnic).

These don’t include the various off-site tastings I and the rest of the MS Team poured at:  Sonoma Showcase Weekend, Pick of the Vine, SF Chronicle Wine Tasting, Copia’s Winery of the Week series, Rhone Rangers and the list goes on….

…or the various national events our 2 vp’s of sales and winemaker have been part of around the country:  Taste of Vail, the James Beard Dinner in NYC, Macarthur’s Annual California Barrel Tasting in DC, the Nantucket Wine Festival,  Sonoma in the City (SF), and more. 

What’s my point?  We see a LOT of people, pour a LOT of wine, and spread a LOT of fun around.  Our wine club members make up more than 1/2 of the folks at most of our winery events- that means they’ve caught on……..  With Michel-Schlumberger there’s never a dull moment.  And there’s much, much more in store in 2009 — stay tuned!

Here’s something I get asked a lot:  “Are you guys busy growing grapes and making wine all year or do you have an off-season?”

Good question.

Generally, we’re swamped all year.  In the Spring we’re mostly pruning the vines and racking/blending in the Cellar.  The arrival of Summer necessitates all sorts of care for the vines in the vineyard and for the wines in the cellar, as well as a heck of a lotta bottling.  Fall, of course, is Harvest.  Then there’s Winter…

December is clean-up time.  And when all the year’s wine is tucked away in barrel and all the Crush equipment is scrubbed and put away then, much like the bare vines in the vineyard, we get to go sorta dormant for a few weeks.  Most of the vineyard crew takes most of the month off, many heading South for a sunny break with family and friends.  And the rest of us finally have time to simply hang out and eat and drink and ponder life’s many mysteries.  In that very spirit (and because I can’t think of anything else to write at the moment) I offer up my First Annual Top 5 Things to Ponder on a Cold Winter’s Night:

1. I hate to be a sore loser but what’s up with Obama’s nomination of “The Satan of Seedsavers”, Tom Vilsack, to the post of Secretary of Agriculture?  You may have seen my blog rant several weeks ago condemning his consideration for the job.  And you may have seen my much happier post a week or so later when it was announced that Organic-minded folks like you and me pressured the President-elect to drop that silly notion.  And you may be reading THIS post where I just heard that Vilsack is, indeed, our new leader of food and farms.  Ah, well.  Sometimes life is like that…

2. Why is syrah not a lot more popular?  Sure, it sells O.K., but not like cabernet.  But think about it — It grows great in a lot of places in California (and other states); it is made in different, delicious styles; it goes with food better than most other red varietals; and, overall, it’s a better value than cab or pinot. Syrah worship – Is it wrong?

3.  Recent studies show that, like humans, some honeybees are downright lazy.  It’s true.  Most individual honeybee foragers make numerous trips to collect pollen or nectar during their short, busy lives.  But some “foraging” bees venture out only once or twice a day, and appear to just kinda hang out in the hive most of the time while their sisters do most of the work.  For some reason I find that very comforting…

4. What’s up with the 49ers?  Are they really, actually, truly getting better after all these years or are the past few games a fluke?  I gotta say, I really like Singletary and that Hill is cool as a frozen cucumber in the pocket.  Let’s hope upper management doesn’t screw it all up.  Then there’s the Raiders…

5. Why can’t people be more like dogs?  I guess maybe a lot of work wouldn’t get done but I guess we wouldn’t care, either.  Right?  And I think having a tail would be pretty cool…

There you have it.  Now you have some food for thought to fire off to break those occasional icy silences while entertaining Aunt Dora for the Holidays.  Or, better yet, forget pondering and just pop in “It’s A Wonderful Life” and zone out in dog-like bliss by the fire with a glass of wine.

Happy Happy Holidays!

Tony

p.s.  If you have any scintillating revelations about these topics or anything else, let me know…

Let’s get one thing straight, right off the bat – there are a TON of really, really good wines out there.  I mean, think about it – these days there are great Winemakers all over the world, producing all sorts of amazing varietals in every imaginable style at every price point.  To be honest, that’s great for the consumer but a real pain in the butt for me when I pour Michel-Schlumberger wines at an off-site event along with up to a hundred or more other fine wineries.  To stand out in such company, especially when pouring for folks who have not had the privilege of visiting our winery, requires a real sense of connection between the tasters and the wine.  That’s where I come in.  Part of my job is to facilitate that connection – to meet with people and somehow show them what makes Michel-Schlumberger what it is.  And when I pour for people I’ll happily discuss the details of wine chemistry and vineyard nutrients and the pros and cons of natural cork but what I’m most interested in is trying to convey the SPIRIT of Michel-Schlumberger (I know that may sound cheesy but that’s all I’ve got – I guess I’m kinda weird like that).  And, to me, our SPIRIT is the sum of exceptional people who love what they are doing, making exceptional wine in an exceptional place.  And, most importantly, doing it in an environmentally friendly way.

That’s why next year I’m going to try something both new and cool.  I am officially announcing the latest, greatest thing ever to hit the world of wine education and I call it Worms to Wine (remember, you heard it here first).

It all started at these off-site tastings I was talking about.  I keep get the same question over and over: “What in the world do vegetables, beehives, chickens, sheep and pigs have to do with growing grapes and making wine?”  A good answer to that question is not only quite long but also very difficult to express in a noisy, crowded hall in 5 minutes or less.  The best way, I figured, is to get small groups of people to the very source and actually SHOW them firsthand.

That’s where Worms to Wine comes in.

Starting in the Spring I will begin personally taking small groups of folks through the ultimate tour of the Michel-Schlumberger Wine Estate.  I am hoping my 13 years of experience at the winery, from Cellar Master to Vineyard Biologist to Organic Farmer to Beekeeper and Chicken Feeder, will help me to give folks a genuine understanding of the entire process of making an exceptional wine.  The tour will start at our worm bin in the garden and finish on the porch, sipping wine – Worms to Wine (pretty clever, isn’t it?).  In between, we will first visit the beehives, organic veggie garden, chickens and sheep.  We’ll talk about the soil and the interactions of these entities and their importance in creating a sustainable farming system.  After that, we’ll stroll the vineyards to see how these principles of environmental balance are applied to growing grapes.  We’ll wander around the lake and check out some really cool birds (and if we’re lucky maybe a fox or bobcat).  We’ll take a break in the shade for a sip of wine right next to the vineyard that produced it.  We’ll walk through the cellar, chat with Winemaker Mike Brunson, and walk the entire winemaking process from grape to bottle.  We’ll finish with some seriously good wine and local cheese while relaxing on the back porch by the bird feeders overlooking the garden.  And, finally, we’ll send you home with a re-usable canvas tote bag filled with stuff like organic olive oil, dried herbs and herbal tea from the garden, veggies, seeds, and a very special Worms to Wine T-shirt.

This will not be a lecture and it will not be the least bit boring.  My goal for this tour is fun and informal.  I’m still working out the details but stay tuned for more info after the New Year.  As always, I will be quite busy working in the cellar/vineyard/gardens throughout 2009 so I’m afraid the Worms to Wine tour will be fairly limited in availability.  But I am very much looking forward to showing as many of our friends around as possible.

I’m also very interested in any comments you may have so I can plan the very best experience for guests.  What most interests you about viticulture and winemaking?  What aspects of Michel-Schlumberger would you most like to explore?  Who was the 13th President of the United States?

Peace and Worms,

Tony

This time of year can be cold on the west side (throw your gang sign) of picturesque Dry Creek Valley. We’ve already had a couple of days right around 32 degrees. That’s why we moved the Old English Southdown Babydoll Sheep into the vineyards. We figured a little wool near the vine would help with keeping them warm during this Holiday season. Naw…

Our little wooly weeders go into the vineyards every year around this time. Most of you have probably already heard about our “green” efforts, but this has more to do with vineyard efficiency, vineyard health and producing top-shelf grapes. Mankind couldn’t design a machine that works as well as sheep. These beautiful animals can do it all (except defend themselves against Wiley Coyote). They keep our vinerows looking manicured and if that wasn’t enough, they are “fertilizing” at the same time. My daughter would say, “SNAP!” We’ve had sheep in the vineyards since 2003 and the last time we fertilized in these blocks was 2004. The other added benefit is that the vines aren’t alone out there. Besides me and Tony, how many of you think that plants do better (thrive) when they have a little company?

Come by and take a look at our wooly weeders in action…it’s a sight (and smell) to behold.

I love Supper Clubs. What’s better than a big group of people who love food and wine, getting together and sharing these two things? The price.

The price per person for your typical Supper Club gathering is minimal compared to a typical food and wine evening out on the town. Restaurants or caterers can offer lower prices since they are feeding everyone the same thing, and also feeding a larger group.

You can find some amazing food or great conversation at a Supper Club.

Last night, for instance, I partook in a Dan Lucia’s monthly Tues night Supper Club. For $35/person plus a donation of wine-my friends and I had plentiful food, wines, music, and conversation. I saw fellow wine industry folks, local business owners, and even bumped into some Michel-Schlumberger wine club members who (surprise!) had brought a bottle of our 2004 cab to complement the braised beef, mushrooms and polenta.

A good way to spend a Tuesday evening, no?

Another of our favorite places to eat: Santi (www.tavernasanti.com) has a Supper Club dinner on the last Sunday of each month. They focus on a different region’s cuisine for each meal and with 5 courses at only $45/person there are less good reasons to stay in for the night……….

Look up your local Supper Club today……..or let us know about a Supper Club you are part of!

I am new to the world of blogging, at least the writing side of the blog world.  I have been reading and enjoying blogs for many years.  Benchlandblog is the first time I have ever posted anything.  I can’t help but think that every post just floats out into the dark space of the interweb never to been seen or read by anyone.  How can anyone find time to read my post with all the noise, traffic, information, etc on the web.  I know I love reading Benchland, but does anyone else outside of Michel-Schlumberger?

Today, I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the answer to that question is yes.  Tom Wark, author of Fermentation: The Daily Wine Blog, not only reads but enjoys our blog.  Today’s post was about the top 5 most intriguing new wine blogs of 2008 and Benchlandblog  was  on the list.  Thanks Tom!

I have been reading Fermentation for some time now and so should you.  Not only is it educational and very entertaining, but it has a clear point of view and always tells it like it is.  One of the great things about social media is it gives you the chance to get involved, join the conversation, or start your own.  At the very least you can be a voyeur into the stories and lives of millions of others.

I will keep posting happily knowing that at least one person hears my blog when it falls.

There are many hidden spots here at Michel-Schlumberger, that have been carved out over the years. One of my favorites is up on Tranquility Hill, which is in a wooded area above the lake that most people just pass by. This spot has a small bench a plaque dedicating it to Jacques and his wife Barbara.  In the wintertime the sheep live on Tranquility Hill.  I like to go up there sometimes after work and just hang out and watch the herons and other bird life around the lake.  Sometimes I go there for lunch. There’s also Sr.’s garden, which competes with our Estate Garden for produce output and has cacti for nopales tacos.  If you can convince Mike, you might get to go out on the roof which overlooks the courtyard and has an awesome view of the vineyard.  Some of the cellar crew have been known to sleep up there during late night harvests.  You can literally see a million stars! 

One of the most scenic spots on the Estate that very few guests have seen is what we call “Bloque Rico.” If you’ve ever gone on a Green Tour here, you’ve tasted just under Bloque Rico, which is one of our reserve blocks and it sits high (well 400 feet above sea level high) above the Estate. To get up there is quite a haul and it can be quite precipitous on the way down as well.  It’s a rocky path and an almost 60 degree incline.  Tony and Mike came up with a great idea called Rico’s Challenge. It consists of hiking to the hill and back to the winery in thirty minutes or less. 

If you’re into something less strenuous and you’re a Wine Bench Member, you can relax on the back patio. This is one of the few picnic spots at the Estate and you can hang here for free as part of your membership.  All we need is 24 hours advance notice and the patio is yours. From 3pm to 5pm, with the sun shining across the vineyard in a golden hue, this has got to be one of the most beautiful sights in all of Dry Creek and for me, one of the most relaxing ways to end a day.

Jay Kell

With the grape and olive harvest season now ‘officially’ behind us, it’s time to tuck everything in and get to planning the coming year. This can be tough when the weather is as nice as it has been. Colors are flashy and the wind drives the sudden movements of anything not attached to the ground. There are a few acorns around, but for the most part, the squirrels (my Grandfather called them North American Ground Monkeys) have done an exceptional job at collecting. The permanent cover crop is vivid green and our sheep are keeping it at golf course standard height…not a blade out of place. Half of our vineyardists are dropping wires for the pruning that will take place in the New Year. The other half are taking the month of December off. Well deserved I must say.

This Friday will be Caitlin’s last day here at Michel-Schlumberger. She came to us about three months ago and has become a part of our family.  She’s taking off to Santa Cruz to live and work on an organic farm. More organic farming! Yes! It sounds like a lot of hard work in a glorious location in the Santa Cruz Mountains. We’ll be seeing her in the coming months, that’s for sure. One thing that we’ll do before she leaves, is taste all of the wines that she had a hand in making this year. It’s a great exercise that will give us a good glance at the vintage as a whole and show her the fruits of all her hard work. We’ve certainly been tracking these lot by lot, but we’ll have all the wines before us in one exciting set. Can’t wait.

Thanks for everything Caitlin.

Call me crazy-but when Halloween is over and done and the calendar page flips to November it officially begins to feel like the ‘holiday’ season to me. And as we eat our way through Thanksgiving…it is absolutely ‘on’.  Maybe it’s because I want the excuse to play Christmas music, watch old holiday movies, or decorate my house with shiny, pretty, Christmasy things. Or maybe it’s because I just want to be able to feel justified in eating more food and drinking more wine than usual. Hmm…..

In the past month I’ve poured a disproportionate amount of the wines I’ve been miserly hoarding in my cellar (aka: living room closet). Disproportionate I mean, to the amount I opened during the rest of the past year. Why do I suddenly feel the need to purge my wine closet of all of it’s best treasures when the holidays creep near? Is it just the cooler weather?

There’s always a reason (aka: excuse).

1st: I need a nice bottle to take home for the weekend to help my little sister start to really appreciate wine. Wait-what am I going to drink? What about Mom-she’s more of a Chardonnay gal….Oh, hell I’ll bring a half-case and we’ll work our way through them all! (there go 3 of my favorite whites and 3 of long-time hoarded reds-)

2nd: I’m visiting my out of town boyfriend and his friends for dinner at their house. I’d really like to impress the wine savvy couple with a bottle of something GREAT! Maybe even 2-just in case their wine choices are suspect (two more nice bottles of red-one ‘99 Reserve Michel-Schlumberger Cabernet Sauvignon I got in my Christmas basket last year!). Yes, they WERE impressed.

3rd: My family came up to my neck of the woods this Thanksgiving-finally! Wait….that meant I needed to provide all the wine! They probably expected me to since I work at a winery right? I thought I needed at least 6 bottles for 12 people…boy was that ever not enough!

I’ve polished off almost 2 cases of my 5 case collection in just the past month (not just me-but you know…)! I noticed the waning # of bottles but wasn’t phased a bit-since sharing wine is just so much fun. Now, if anyone asks what they can bring to Christmas I’ll probably have to say, “A good bottle of wine.”

Lesson? I believe the reason we buy more wine than we can drink at one time (call it saving or aging if you’d like) is so that we have enough to share with those we like enough to share it with. Right?

It’s almost as much fun opening the bottles for these friends or family, as it was discovering that wine in the first place. You simply can’t begrudge your spoils when you enjoy them at long last. What’s the nicest wine you’ve ever opened for someone? Why was it your favorite? Was it expensive, rare, limited production, or just a good wine you liked and put away for a nice occasion?